...this winsome theatrical adaptation of Nigel Slater’s memoir of a childhood derailed would be hard to resist...it offers a nourishingly nostalgic sense of time and place.
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Whilst the production never quite manages to strike the tragic note that the plot would require, Toast is a fun celebration of food and how our childhood experiences of it shape us.
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Jonnie Riordan’s bouncy production is fairly one-note; it’s an agreeable note, but it does try the patience after a time. Playful moments of fourth-wall breaking...are jolly at first, but become increasingly heavy-handed.
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There’s rather too much filling, not least in the form of some clumsy dream-like choreographed sequences, and it would have tasted better at a swift 90 minutes rather than two and a half hours. But a show that liberally dispenses walnut whips to its audience is hard not to love.
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But where ‘Toast’ succeeds is in capturing the same intoxicating, engrossing pleasure of food that the real-life Slater turns into mouth-watering poetry in his cookbooks.
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